At Namche Bazaar

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Finally we left Kathmandu for Lukla (2,840m / 9,317 ft) on April 22 to experience probably the best 40 minute flight of anybody?s life, through the valley under the supervision of Everest?s superior gaze. Here we met up with our Sirdar, called Tenzing and the other Sherpas who work to transport all our gear to Everest base camp over the next two weeks.

We went out along the well beaten Everest trail competing with the over-laden porters and surefooted yaks for trail space. The scenery was as spectacular as any I have ever seen but with much greater scale.

After about four or five hours, many tea house stops and heavy rain we arrived at our first overnight lodge at Monjo (2,835m / 9,300ft). Rooms were not quite to Hilton standards but at least we only had to share the dingy toilet with ten other people.

Dinner was at 6.30 PM, very country frugal and we were all in bed by 8.00 PM in our sleeping bags. I woke up at about 10.00 PM with breathing difficulties and since we were only at 9,300ft, this caused me some concern for future days. I should add that it is just this kind of predictable experience that the Caudwell Xtreme Everest medical team wants us to record in our daily diaries that form the basis of the volunteer research study.

When Brian and I did our basic tests today (April 23) we noticed that our blood pressure had risen considerably ? something to watch ? but given the medical nature of the expedition I am not unduly concerned. In fact I am apparently just the kind of subject that is interesting as I am showing the physical effects of high altitude.

After energy-giving porridge and toast we commenced our trek to Namche Bazaar (3,440m / 11,283ft) ? a climb of about four hours and another 2,000ft of altitude.

We all noticed the lack of oxygen in the air and one or two people complained of headaches. I felt fine, other than being rather tired but I am wondering about my breathing during the nights ahead.

I had another sleepless night caused by a very erratic shortness of breath which seemed to occur every time I was about to go to sleep. Still, it makes getting up in the morning a pleasure in escaping the nightly misery.

I reported this to the medics and knowing that I have been alcohol free for seven days they decided a prescription was necessary. Later we picked up our pots marked up Penicillin but with distinct overtones of pure Scotch whisky.

On Tuesday morning (April 24) we had the full Monty tests to look forward to, that is blood, neuro (a very gentle name for mental torture), spiro tests for lung capacity and of course the dreaded bike.

Wired to the hilt to test almost every function imaginable, we do the 36 minute test at 20, 40 and 60 watts ? very easy even at high altitude. Then onto the ramp test so called because 30 watts of resistance comes on every minute until your heart and lungs feel ready to explode, encouraged by our enthusiastic torturers.

Brian and I were very lucky. The people from MacGillivray Freeman Films, who are producing a new IMAX film on Everest, wanted to film Brian and I doing a ramp test but couldn?t risk effecting the results of the real one ? so guess what ? we got to do a second bonus ramp! Lungs are now a little sore but that will soon pass.

During the morning, Alessandro, who works for Baretta, rejoined the group. He had been stuck in Kathmandu, brought down by the dreaded bug that apparently everybody will get at some time. He seems to be fully recovered and made great time from Monjo to Namche Bazaar in only three hours.

By the way, thanks to family, friends and any relatives or friends on Trek F for your great messages! Myself, Brain and the rest of the team are able to read them where there is internet access ? which is at a few different points along the trek - which applies to getting the blogs posted too, so please don?t worry later on if there are several days without an up-date.

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Blog by John Caudwell