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The Khumbu Icefall to Camp 1.

12 messages :: read>

We are now just over a month into the Caudwell Xtreme Everest Expedition, and contrary to my darling wife?s recent suggestion, I have not been sunning myself in the Carribean, drinking pina colada as the sun sets over an azure blue sea. The Caudwell Xtreme Climbing team have just returned from our first sortie into the Khumbu Icefall having spent a night at Camp 1.

The Icefall dominates Basecamp like no other glacier I know. Basecamp is actually placed on the glacier just as it takes a right angled bend and is on the move in two ways all the time. Firstly it is melting fast and everyday new rivulets develop as the glacier melts in the hot sun. Rocks and tents are left high and dry as the surrounding ice melts giving the impression of the tide going out on Basecamp. Secondly the entire camp is slowly on the move down the valley, and every so often there are pistol shot noises as the ice readjusts its position.

The climbing route through the Icefall is set and maintained by the ?Icefall Doctors?. This group of sherpas, for an agreed fee, fix the hazardous route through the icefall. The route climbs rapidly through some of the most sensational ice landscape in the world. It tackles the vertical seracs and the gaping crevasses head on, using a combination of fixed ropes and aluminium ladder bridges (often using 3-4 tied together). Whilst in some ways the route is a sociable place as one meets fellow friends and climbers from other expeditions, speed is the essence for safety since it reduces the time spent in this exquisitely beautiful but hostile and potentially dangerous environment. Our strategy has been to acclimatise elsewhere on safer ground, so that we can move through the icefall more rapidly.

Comments on this article

By: Peter Bates

When: 16th May 2007 11:38

Chris,

It only seems "35" years ago when you led Lucie and I on one of your first expeditions (Ridgeway Cycle)!!! Old Bikes and Berkshire stinging nettles, must be a distant memory as you enjoy being on top of the world with those glorious sights. Just as hard work I am sure! Be careful and enjoy it all. I look forward to following your progress (from this safe distance!!)

Best Regards - Peter Bates

By: Tamsin Matthews

When: 25th Apr 2007 18:24

Having managed to successfully navigate our way through the often daunting and treacherous World Wide Web in order to reach you with this message, we would like to send our very best wishes to you and your team for a triumphant summit and valuable results. We shall be thinking about you all as we sign off to go and enjoy our afternoon tea! Best of luck to you all.
All our love, Tamsin and Sandra x

By: David Hillebrandt	When: 24th Apr 2007 23:08
Was chatting to Sylvia on phone this evening. She sounded well but did say you were being a bit of a whimp about NG tubes. As somebody who has recently had tubes in every orifice and a few other places as well I thought I should tell you to be British keep a still upper lip and take the rough with the smooth. All the best. Dave H.

By: David Sheer

When: 24th Apr 2007 21:48

Hi Mr Imray when you told me that you were hoping to climb Everest when I was a patient back in 2005. I have been looking for information about the climb and I admire you and the rest of the team. The view of the ice flow is wonderful.

Best wishes
David Sheer

By: Colin and Shirley	When: 24th Apr 2007 09:36
Every day we follow eagerly the blogs on the team's medical experiments, and the exploits on Everest's spectacular obstacle course. Longonot in 1964, saving John D's life in Pakistan in 1975, and working in Kathmandu in 1982 made a good build up for you to tackle Everest in 2007. Vaya con Dios.

By: David Hillebrandt	When: 24th Apr 2007 00:46
Chris, Please let all DMM faculty members know that we have arranged a faculty meeting in a camping barn in Peak district for w/e 3/4/5 Aug. Dave H.

By: Cathy Naya

When: 23rd Apr 2007 13:54

Glad to hear from you on the blog at last. I greatly admire what you are doing. The scenery on the way up looks spectacular and the icefall looks frightenly beautiful! I read the blogs regularly and look forward to reading further progress of the climb. I hope the experiments continue to go well.

Very best wishes, and Jane says Hi, too,
Cathy Naya

By: Karl

When: 23rd Apr 2007 11:28

Thanks for sharing your exploits with us. I'm really proud to know you and wonderfully reassured that lifes adventures and dreams can happen to those that work hard to meet and achieve them.

Karl

By: Andrew sutherland

When: 23rd Apr 2007 01:24

Hi Chris. I've been following the expedition closely - good luck with all the science and most of all the climb. Stay safe.

Andrew

By: mike greene	When: 22nd Apr 2007 21:51
A long way from The Cross and Kashmir! We looked across to where you are last year and it's a real buzz to know that you are REALLY there -it makes me excited even in Cumbria. Stay safe, dig deep when it's hard and have fun.! I will try and watch your progress. Thinking of you. Mike

By: Alison Colyer

When: 22nd Apr 2007 11:59

It's so hard to imagine you on the other side of the world grappling with such extremes while life here in England goes on as usual. We are all thinking of you and are so excited and proud of all that you and the team are doing. The thought of the ground literally shifting beneath one's feet sounds frightening - but given my general approach to life, surprisingly familiar. I hope that each day there is something wonderful that stops you in your tracks and reminds you of what a wonderful life changing experience you are having!

With very much love, your baby sister! Alison xxxx

By: Darling Wife

When: 21st Apr 2007 19:17

Did you write that yourself? It's very good! I look forward to reading many more such epistles and am delighted to see you finally appear in print. I hope everyone is as good as you with their knots as those aluminium ladders look frighteningly flimsy, not least at the joins! The ice falls look spectacular and I know just how fond you are of them all over the world. Look forward to some equally spectacular photographs on your return. Have a safe climb and stay at Camp one and hope to hear more news as and when you can.

Love always
S xxx

Blog by Chris Imray