Up to Camp Two

A big day for some. We set off at around 07.00, having learned yesterday that the ascent is harsh in the heat of the sun. The route follows a whale-back, with intermittent steep roped sections, taking us to the first serrac in about 2 hours. This massive ice cliff has a roped traverse to the left, and then a steep ascent. Descent is by abseil- or should be: this morning, a couple of commercial groups are descending via the traverse, creating congestion (and danger) as ascending and descending parties try to share the same exposed route. Nevertheless, we make it up, to a flat area of brightly lit snow. The temptation is to rest- but we have a long way yet to go.

The route rises slowly to our left, where a 300m flat track leads to a steeper ascent. This is foreshortened, and Mike G jokes that it looks easy. We laugh, but inwardly agree- this ought to be just fine. How wrong! The route goes on for ever, and becomes very steep indeed. We climb with axes and jumars to turn the top of the route, and arrive exhausted.

I am ahead, with Maryam- who is both tough and determined, and together we wind our way onwards to C2. The air is so very thin that, even on the relatively flat, we find ourselves taking 10 breaths per pace. Patrick catches us up, and is first to camp, where we collapse and make a brew.

From here, the view is (bad pun!) breathtaking too, and the highest of Himalayan peaks are spread about, with a carpet of cloud below us. Nonetheless, this can be a savage environment, and radio communications from Sundeep tell us that severe storms are due from Friday for perhaps three days. We thus make immediate plans to leave first thing tomorrow. With no books or cards (no room for such weight!) we retire to bed at sundown- or around 18.00hrs.

Story by Hugh Montgomery