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 BLOG   Hugh Montgomery  28th Apr 2007

The Ice Fall of Archway

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Having rested fitfully overnight, I pulled back the curtains a little shortly after dawn. Those who don?t know Hackney cannot imagine the glories nature has to offer. Particularly across the way at number 34. I wait in vain for ?sherpa tea?, but my wife is still asleep. I thus venture in to the harsh world outside my duvet.

We are at an altitude of 34 feet above sea level here, having ascended from ?camp kitchen? sometime late last night, and rested briefly at ?The Balcony?. The descent is so much easier, however, and I am soon making a brew. Radio Four keeps me company- a much needed link to civilization for those residing on K2, or in E9.

So fortified, I venture outside. Today is going to be a long slog, for I plan to reach the ?Archway?. Mike Grocott made the first ascent (albeit from the North) some two years ago. I shall be attempting the new South-East route, solo (the kids being at home. It?s Sunday).

Only members of the local indigenous population are up at this hour (the ?Clubbers? and ?robbers? in the main: the ?dealers? tend, by nature, to be nocturnal). I marvel at the fresh tang of carbon monoxide in the mouth, of petrol on the palette, and at the soft crunching of broken glass underfoot. Only the haunting wail of the lonely car alarm keeps me company.

08.30. I have made it, in record time, pausing only once for vittles- a cappuccino and croissant (almond) from a local tradesman. But now is not the time to dally. I write this as I strike out through the ?I fall? (casualty).

Some might ask ?Why??

And I answer ?Because its there. And also because Mike has b@?!gered off, and left me to do his on-call.?

Yes, I know it is dangerous. Hackney and Archway always have been. But better to live one day as a tiger, than a lifetime as a donkey.

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Comments on this article

By: Caroline WhitworthWhen: 7th Jun 2007 20:37
There is talk about Foinaven getting an 'upgrade' and it looks like Hackney may be up for it too. Well done to all the team, have been following your exploits. Did you top out?
Had not realised until a recent google on you that there are more books out!
Hope the family are all well. Give us a call if you are up north. CW
By: TseringWhen: 1st Jun 2007 15:39
Congratulation for the success of the summit. I was continuously updating the progress and finally you all have made it. I am from Ladakh, a high altitude area in India and my roots have driven my interest into this field. I am sure that the time ahead is going to be much more exciting for the researchers as there may be plenty of findings awaited. Presently doing PhD my work relates to high altitude genetics. Your paper "Human gene of physical performance" was among the first paper I refered.
Best wishes
Tsering
By: Paul FirthWhen: 28th May 2007 04:19
From the sweltering wastes of northern Boston, on call to put children to sleep if needed, my own children asleep, perchance I can dream - but to find if not a ghost of high altitude, then at least a kindred spirit, at an altitude similar to mine, with thoughts of altitudes similar to mine - a rare treat!! Helllo Hugh - great to find out where you are and CONGRATS on the successes of your expedition!
By: margaret allenWhen: 18th May 2007 09:02
Hi Hugh
Now I know why you never answer your phone, to busy enjoyng almond croissaant and cappaccino and your daily intake of carbon monoxide. Never mind I have emailed you the latest news update. look forward to contacting Mike/malcomeor is it Paul?) Gunning on his return.

good lck to all the tem
margaret

By: julieWhen: 15th May 2007 16:02
hi Hugh - so that's what you're up to!
By: Emma MorrisWhen: 3rd May 2007 14:23
Good job not all of the tigers have bu@@ered off to Nepal.
See you all tomorrow for supper.

By: Sara SpencerWhen: 1st May 2007 14:40
Love this Hugh! Am laughing my socks off!! - very 'Ascent of Run Doodle'.
Best to Mary, Oscar and Number 2.
Sara
By: David CobbWhen: 29th Apr 2007 11:21
Hi Hugh,

I leave Weds to EBC - can't wait. Am sending email Mon am to UCL press people to prod them - not sure if anyone/you? have close contacts with them already and so would not wish to usurp any other initiatives in this regard. Cheers, David

By: SA doctorsWhen: 28th Apr 2007 14:47
Hi Hugh, Message take 2. IIt's a tough life but someone has to do it. We, in the urban jungle of Johannesburg ,understand. May the Force be with you.
By: SA doctorsWhen: 28th Apr 2007 14:41
Hi Hugh,

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Dr Hugh Montgomery

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